The Trichology Review
Established 2021 · Independent · Reader-supported · No industry fundingVol. 6 · No. 14 — July 2026
THE TRICHOLOGY REVIEW
Evidence status: current·Last updated 12 Jun 2026 · v2.3·Revision history
What the evidence actually says

9 claims the marketing repeats

The hair-loss aisle runs on plausible-sounding mechanisms that were never tested end-to-end. We took the most common claims and graded each against the human evidence. None of these are graded on tone, only on trials.

By J. Okafor
Managing Editor
D
"Biotin regrows hair"

Biotin corrects hair problems caused by biotin deficiency, which is rare. In people with normal levels, supplementation shows no measured regrowth benefit. The claim survives because the deficiency case is real and gets generalized to everyone.

D
"DHT-blocking shampoos stop hair loss"

Even if the active ingredient inhibits DHT in a dish, a shampoo's contact time with the scalp is a minute or two before rinse-off, far too brief to deliver a meaningful dose to the follicle. It fails on pharmacokinetics before efficacy is even in question. See how real topicals dose →

C
"Rosemary oil works as well as minoxidil"

This rests almost entirely on a single 2015 trial with real methodological limits. It is worth tracking, not worth treating as settled. One study is a hypothesis, not a conclusion.

C
"Scalp massage thickens hair"

The evidence is a small self-reported study and a plausible mechanotransduction story. Harmless, possibly minor, but the causal claim outruns the data, which is the recurring pattern in this category.

C
"Caffeine shampoo stimulates growth"

Caffeine affects follicle cells in culture. Whether a rinse-off product delivers enough, long enough, to matter in a human scalp has not been shown. Cell-dish activity is a starting point, not proof.

D
"Plucking a grey makes 2 grow back"

Folk belief with no biological basis. A follicle produces one hair; plucking damages it, it does not multiply it. Included because it shows how confidently a claim can circulate with zero evidence.

The pattern underneath

Almost every myth here shares one flaw: a real mechanism in a dish is sold as a real result in a person, skipping the step where delivery, dose, and duration decide whether anything happens.

That gap is exactly why we grade on human trials, and why the interventions that clear the bar, and the frontier that might, are worth far more of your attention than the aisle.

Selected sourcesFull citation index →
01Zhang H, et al. FGF signalling in dermal papilla cells and anagen induction. J Invest Dermatol 2019;139(4):812–821. doi:10.1016/j.jid.2018.10.032
02Katsuoka K, et al. FGF-7 (KGF) and hair-matrix keratinocyte proliferation. Br J Dermatol 2017;176(6):1487–1495. doi:10.1111/bjd.15234
03Olsen EA, et al. Topical minoxidil: a 40-year evidence synthesis. J Am Acad Dermatol 2021;84(3):632–644. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2020.09.041
04Messenger AG, Rundegren J. Minoxidil: mechanisms of action on hair growth. Br J Dermatol 2004;150(2):186–194.
Referenced by
VogueAllureHarper’s Bazaarbyrdiewell+goodCosmopolitanGlamourmarie clairerefinery29InStyleDermatology TimesPractical DermatologyCosmetics & ToiletriesVogueAllureHarper’s Bazaarbyrdiewell+goodCosmopolitanGlamourmarie clairerefinery29InStyleDermatology TimesPractical DermatologyCosmetics & Toiletries
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